In Front of Them All - A Glimpse at North Korea

First I want to apologize; it seems like I hadn't answered your comments since last week. I'm sorry about that, but now the problem is fixed. All set? Good.

As I promised, today I want to talk about my visit to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). The DMZ is the no-man's land that separates North and South Korea. I'm sure you've all heard of the "38th parallel," it's an expression often used in the media to refer to the area. Actually, the DMZ does not follow the 38th parallel; in fact, it has nothing to do with it. The only reason it is used is that when the cease-fire was agreed on in 1953, both Northern and Southern armies had roughly stopped at around that line. It is funny for the DMZ to be called the "Demilitarized Zone" because this 4km wide no-man's land strip of land that cuts the country in two is actually the most militarized area of the whole peninsula.

The Korean war (1950-1953) is a really complex war and I do not want to go in depth here but to make a long story short, not long after the Korean peninsula was liberated from the Japanese occupation, the North, with communist allies, launched an attack on the capitalist South. Using the effect of surprise, the North managed to invade most of the South until it was pushed back to the borders of China by the joint Korean and UN forces. Unfortunately, China joined forces with the North and managed to push the South again. The war was waged for many more months, the North and the South both pushing each other back and forth across the 38th parallel until a cease-fire was agreed on. Thus, the DMZ was created.

They make if look like a theme park...

Our visit started at the Imjingak Park, a park just outside the DMZ. The place was really weird because it also had an amusement park. According to our guide, many families go there on the weekend to picnic. I personally found the idea of going for a family day out right next to the DMZ a little disturbing... In the park, we were able to see the Freedom bridge which is an important place for many Korean people as it was this bridge that was used in 1953 to exchange POW. Unfortunately, the bridge is now closed and thousands of South Korean are still waiting for their loved ones to return home from the North. Many North Koreans now living in the South also are dying without being able to see there hometown one more time. Now the bridge is covered in colourful strips of fabric each one a wish for the reunification.

Freedom Bridge

Hopes and Wishes

Next we entered the DMZ through the Reunification Bridge, where our passports were checked, and we were taken to the Dora observatory. From there, we could clearly see the North Korean propaganda village and its gigantic flagpole. We were only allowed to take pictures within a yellow rectangle traced on the concrete. UN soldiers, mainly Korean personnels, we're keeping a close eye on us.

Dora Observatory

A glimpse of North Korea

We then moved on to go see Dorasan Station, which is the last train station on the South Korean side. The Korean people hope that someday, trains to Pyongyang will run from there. For the time being, Dorasan is a ghost station and the only trains that go through it are freight trains which bring supplies to the Hyundai plants in North Korea.

Maybe one day...

Our next stop was the 3rd tunnel. In 1974, the South made an alarming discovery: a North Korean tunnel that stretched far under the DMZ and facing Seoul. They immediately started to search for other ones. They discovered others in 1975, 1978 and 1990 and believe that there are probably a total of 20 of them. All tunnels are facing Seoul. Two meter square, the tunnels, if they had been completed, would have allowed about 10 000 armed foot soldiers to cross to South Korea within an hour. North Korea however, denies those claims and says the tunnels are abandoned coal mines. Unfortunately, there is no coal to be found for miles in that area. Still North Korea maintains its claims and the tunnels were even "painted" with coal powder. The 3rd tunnel is the only one open to public and only the South Korean part can be accessed as North Korea promptly made sure the tunnels collapsed on themselves after they were discovered.

Happy to be out of the tunnel

Now this attraction is not for the claustrophobic. To get to the tunnel, which is 73 meters under the ground, we rode a monorail for 250m. That part managed to make some people sick. Then, we got off and got to walk in the 25 or so meters of the tunnel. The ceiling was low and water was dripping everywhere. I was glad our guide kept on talking, because I could easily picture myself giving way to panic in such a confined area. As we were not allowed to bring anything with us, I wasn't able to take pictures of the inside of the tunnel.

Blue buldings are UN and grey ones North Korean. The UN soldiers like to call the grey building the monkey house, as North Korean soldiers have a tendency to pull the curtains and give the finger to tourists.

After a quick lunch, we headed for Panmunjom or the Joint-Security Area (JSA). Now that area is a hot spot. Many of Panmunjom's buildings are set right on the line dividing North and South. This is where all conjoint talks between North and South are held. However, it is not where the original cease-fire was signed; the first Panmunjom was at a different place is is now on North Korean ground. To go into the high security area, we first had our passports checked then we were asked to change buses. We used a military bus; nothing is left to chance there. Before we got to the JSA, we crossed Camp Bonifas, where the UN soldiers working in the DMZ live. Camp Boniface was named after Captain Bonifas who was murdered during the Axe Murder Incident of 1976.

Standing on the border

Say "Kimchiiii!"

Keeping an eye on the North

When we finally got to Panmunjom, we were asked to walk in two lines and to follow instructions. Pictures could only be taken at certain places and with the authorization of our guide. We got to go in the UN building on the frontier and were also allowed to cross over to the North Korean side (the doors were locked.) Outside, UN soldiers were keeping an eye on the North for us. They actually only do that when there are tourists around. Then, we were taken to a small belvedere where we were able to see a North Korean soldier looking at us with binoculars from the other side. We were allowed to take pictures but warned that we should never point or make gestures at them for they take pictures of tourists and use them as propaganda. I managed to get a few close-ups.

I can seeeeee you :D Look at the window on his right. There is a camera lens.

On the way back, we stopped at a souvenir shop in Camp Bonifas (gotta love tours...) and Mr. kanmuri bought the same sunglasses the serious UN soldiers wear. Silliness ensued.

This tour was an amazing experience and even though I was nervous most of the time we were at the JSA, I must say that I am happy I did it. If you visit South Korea, make sure you go to the DMZ. For more info, check out the Service Club website.

Who knows, maybe one day, we'll be able to visit the DMZ from the Northern side...