Look at me! All smiles and confidence! You almost can't tell that the guide is currently talking about the silly climbers who fell off the mountain and died this month!Three months ago a crazy idea popped in my mind: "I have to climb Mount Fuji." Instead of dismissing the silly thought like a sane person would have done, I started thinking about it seriously. I had been in Japan for almost four years now. I was going back home next year. It only made sense, I had to climb the sacred pile of rocks before I left. Should I fail to do so, my honour as a foreigner in Japan would be forever tarnished. I could already hear my detractors speak: "You didn't climb Mount Fuji??? Shame on you!"
Luckily, my sanity beat the crazy part of my brain back into its box when I saw the price for such an expedition. With the guide, the cabin and the transportation to and from Tokyo, the little adventure would come up to way over 500$. Thanks, but no thanks. And so, sanity triumphed over craziness.
But craziness wasn't ready to give up just yet.
About a month later, a friend of mine (to whom I had talked about climbing the mountain,) asked me about the plans to climb Mount Fuji. Sanity told her that I had pretty much given up on it because it was kinda expensive and that I didn't want to do it alone. My friend assured me that she really wanted to climb the mountain and that she would go with me, 100%. Craziness pushed up the lid of his box and I swear I saw him smirk.
And so sanity had to declare defeat when she saw me make plans, look for deals and finally make reservations and payments. Luckily, she didn't go to far and I ended up finding good deals.
On August 28th, off to Tokyo we went and on August 29th, we reached (by bus) Mount Fuji's 5th station. My friend was scared but I was excited. Craziness was laughing maniacally.
The first leg of the climb - from the 5th Station to the 8th (where our cabin was) - took us about 6 hours and a half. We went at a slow pace and compared to Mount Iwate, Mount Fuji was a walk in the park. I never really felt out of breath and didn't feel any pain in my legs. Yes, it was a long climb, but it was bearable. After a while, oxygen started thinning and some people started to feel sick and or tired. I didn't experience any severe symptoms of height sickness but I did experience the climber's high. The last two hours of that part of the trip were a happy happening for me as I gave candies to fellow climbers I didn't know and talked happily to the members of my group. As for my friend, she was in her own private circle of hell.
My high ended when we got to our cabin and saw our sleeping arrangements: I think sardines cans are roomier than our beds were. We all had to line up neatly, each futon shared by two people. For those of you who aren't familiar with futons, picture two adults sharing a single bed and you should have a fairly good idea of what if felt like. With about a hundred people in one room, you can imagine the concert of snores, the people coming and going, the chatting... We had about four hours to rest, but I didn't sleep at all. Somewhere in my head, sanity was beating craziness up with a stick: what was the idea to come to such a crazy place!?
At eleven thirty, I had had enough and got up. I woke up my friend who had been dozing on and off and we got ready for the last leg of the climb. We were out and ready by midnight. There was a surprising big number of climbers outside. We followed after them on the tracks, thankful for their headlights. Without the group and our guide, we were able to go at our own pace and made frequents stops along the way to rest, get my walking stick branded and eat bananas. At some points, the Yamanashi and Shizuoka trails met. I witnessed the biggest human traffic jam of my life. From that moment on, we moved really, really slowly. It was nice, tho, to see the neat line of headlights flickering down and up the mountain.
At about three thirty, I was fed up with the waiting and decided to take the fast lane. Ditching my friend (I felt bad about it afterwards, but at that moment, I just wanted to be at the top,) I started to climb as fast as the human mass would allow me and finally reached the top at 4:15am. Quickly, I grabbed a good spot to watch the sunrise and sat, looking down the path for my friend.
Only one hour to sunrise.
I didn't see my friend come up but, without knowing where I was, she miraculously managed to come and stand within one meter of me. In the cold, we waited for the sun to poke its head off the horizon.
Slowly but surely, the sky became lighter, painting the sky with beautiful colours. The cloud below looked like the see and the city lights were beautiful in the darkness of the lingering night. I heard sanity make peace with craziness, saying this was one of the most beautiful sunrise she had seen since Australia.
The sun out, we warmed our freezing bodies with some warm hot chocolate and soup. Then we started what would turn out to be four hours of nightmarish descent. Sanity broke the truce with craziness as soon as she saw the long gravel path winding down the mountain. To be honest, this descent is the worst of my personal history of going down mountains. I hated every minute of it.
When we finally got down, my friend paid for us to take a horse-cart ride back to the 5th station's meeting area. I was glad. And so against all odds, I had done it. I had conquered the beast and that, without a moment of sleep for a total of 36 hours.
I usually can't sleep while sitting up; on our way back, I slept in the bus. After our stop at a local hot spring to wash up (we were covered with grime,) I slept in the bus. On the bullet-train, I slept, too.
I don't regret having listened to the voice of craziness. Climbing Mount Fuji might have been a crazy idea, but it was a crazily amazing one!
Luckily, my sanity beat the crazy part of my brain back into its box when I saw the price for such an expedition. With the guide, the cabin and the transportation to and from Tokyo, the little adventure would come up to way over 500$. Thanks, but no thanks. And so, sanity triumphed over craziness.
But craziness wasn't ready to give up just yet.
About a month later, a friend of mine (to whom I had talked about climbing the mountain,) asked me about the plans to climb Mount Fuji. Sanity told her that I had pretty much given up on it because it was kinda expensive and that I didn't want to do it alone. My friend assured me that she really wanted to climb the mountain and that she would go with me, 100%. Craziness pushed up the lid of his box and I swear I saw him smirk.
And so sanity had to declare defeat when she saw me make plans, look for deals and finally make reservations and payments. Luckily, she didn't go to far and I ended up finding good deals.
On August 28th, off to Tokyo we went and on August 29th, we reached (by bus) Mount Fuji's 5th station. My friend was scared but I was excited. Craziness was laughing maniacally.
The first leg of the climb - from the 5th Station to the 8th (where our cabin was) - took us about 6 hours and a half. We went at a slow pace and compared to Mount Iwate, Mount Fuji was a walk in the park. I never really felt out of breath and didn't feel any pain in my legs. Yes, it was a long climb, but it was bearable. After a while, oxygen started thinning and some people started to feel sick and or tired. I didn't experience any severe symptoms of height sickness but I did experience the climber's high. The last two hours of that part of the trip were a happy happening for me as I gave candies to fellow climbers I didn't know and talked happily to the members of my group. As for my friend, she was in her own private circle of hell.
Our first break. Chillin'
Thanks, I feel so much better now that I know...
Climbing up the Babel tower
The 7th Station.
Big smile. Crazy eyes. Climber's high.
Above the Clouds
Unfortunately, the sunset was on the other side of the mountain.
Sardines
At eleven thirty, I had had enough and got up. I woke up my friend who had been dozing on and off and we got ready for the last leg of the climb. We were out and ready by midnight. There was a surprising big number of climbers outside. We followed after them on the tracks, thankful for their headlights. Without the group and our guide, we were able to go at our own pace and made frequents stops along the way to rest, get my walking stick branded and eat bananas. At some points, the Yamanashi and Shizuoka trails met. I witnessed the biggest human traffic jam of my life. From that moment on, we moved really, really slowly. It was nice, tho, to see the neat line of headlights flickering down and up the mountain.
Midnight at the 8th station
I look soooo sleepy
At about three thirty, I was fed up with the waiting and decided to take the fast lane. Ditching my friend (I felt bad about it afterwards, but at that moment, I just wanted to be at the top,) I started to climb as fast as the human mass would allow me and finally reached the top at 4:15am. Quickly, I grabbed a good spot to watch the sunrise and sat, looking down the path for my friend.
Only one hour to sunrise.
I didn't see my friend come up but, without knowing where I was, she miraculously managed to come and stand within one meter of me. In the cold, we waited for the sun to poke its head off the horizon.
Slowly but surely, the sky became lighter, painting the sky with beautiful colours. The cloud below looked like the see and the city lights were beautiful in the darkness of the lingering night. I heard sanity make peace with craziness, saying this was one of the most beautiful sunrise she had seen since Australia.
Breathtaking
Sea of clouds
Out at last
The summit. Always make sure you have proofs.
The sun out, we warmed our freezing bodies with some warm hot chocolate and soup. Then we started what would turn out to be four hours of nightmarish descent. Sanity broke the truce with craziness as soon as she saw the long gravel path winding down the mountain. To be honest, this descent is the worst of my personal history of going down mountains. I hated every minute of it.
When we finally got down, my friend paid for us to take a horse-cart ride back to the 5th station's meeting area. I was glad. And so against all odds, I had done it. I had conquered the beast and that, without a moment of sleep for a total of 36 hours.
I usually can't sleep while sitting up; on our way back, I slept in the bus. After our stop at a local hot spring to wash up (we were covered with grime,) I slept in the bus. On the bullet-train, I slept, too.
I don't regret having listened to the voice of craziness. Climbing Mount Fuji might have been a crazy idea, but it was a crazily amazing one!
8 comments:
Once in a lifetime, and only some lifetimes at that. Wow. That morning view alone would have been worth the whole thing. Thank you for sharing your crazy adventure and the gorgeous images.
Was Mr K not interested in going up the mountain? From one guy to another, I must say that that's a bit lightweight of him. ;-)
(Please don't tell Mr K I said that...I'm scared of him.)
Congratulations on a successful summit! Looks like you had a beautiful dawn as well. I was very glad to see you and your friend took proper (warm!) clothing with you - most sensible.
I'm sharpening my crampons for an ascent this winter...
@Ruth: My pleasure! Since I climbed it, I earned the right to brag ;)
@David: Mr K climbed the mountain several times already. They do it as their training for the JSDF.
@Chris: Wow! In winter?! That must be something! As four our coats, we were glad we had them. We saw a lot of people freezing with their shorts and light sweaters.
Congratulations! Weirdly enough, you climbed it on the same day I did, although you seem to have been ahead of me on the trail. :)
Still putting my post together though.
you've just inspired me to add this to my 'must do' list in life :)
congratulation...
making me wanting to climb mt Fuji too..
and the human jam is long@@''
my friend climbing Mt Fuji today... :D
@William: Congratulations to you, too! Strange coincidence!!
@Chele76: If you do, tell me; I'll give you all the info you need ;)
@Jolensiah: seems like everyone was, is or will climb Mount Fuji! The human jam was GIGANTIC!
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